“Why would you travel to Israel now when there’s a war going on?” my nurse asked. Like many others she’d been watching television, rarely a portrayal of the whole truth. Since returning home from a tour with a group of journalists I’ve concluded that North Americans have as many misconceptions about Israel as they have about blood cholesterol.
Arrival at an international airport quickly reveals much about a country. My first impression at Ben Gurion airport was that Tel Aviv is a sophisticated, vibrant city that knows where it’s going. And the drive over rolling hills towards Jerusalem confirms the impression of dramatic growth since Israel became a country in 1948.
This small booming nation provides a variety of experiences for all tastes. In Jerusalem you can absorb ancient history in a stroll along the ramparts of its protective walls. Or meditate about its centuries-old religion in evidence everywhere you walk. No location is more sacred than the Church of the Holy Sepulcher where Jesus was said to have been taken after his crucifixion. Watching those kneeling, touching and praying at this site moves you to realize the depth of their religious pilgrimage means more to them than daily existence. But Jerusalem offers more, quaint shops beneath the walls, cafes and incredible views of the hills surrounding the city.
From Jerusalem we travelled south to the Sinai Desert. On the way we stopped for the most relaxing experience possible, floating in the Dead Sea. Here where the salt concentration is 10 X greater than in any other body of water it’s impossible to sink. If you have a sore the salt water will quickly remind you of it. And if you’re foolish enough to dive into it your burning eyes confirm it was a bad idea.
The fortress of Masada in the Sinai was a major highlight of the trip. It has drama, location and human courage all wrapped up into an exciting one historical package. It was from this massive mountain top that 967 Jewish men, women and children fought off a Roman army of 15,000 for months. Then when defeat was imminent, rather than live as slaves, they took their own lives en masse.
A good example of Israeli fortitude is how they have tamed the desert into a Garden of Eden. A large part of the Sinai is broken up by towering mountains. But where once there was arid desert there are now miles of greenhouses that export products to other nations. Eilat, the sun-capitol of Israel, rather than exporting, imports thousands of tourists to enjoy a variety of activities. Situated at the northern end of the Red Sea, its magnificent harbour is ringed by first class hotels. In Eilat with a single glance it’s possible to see Egypt, Jordan and Saudi Arabia.
Eliat’s dolphins’ reef is unique. It doesn’t contain the usual trapped dolphins. Rather, if the dolphins get fed up with tourists they can easily say goodbye due to an easy access to the Red Sea. But they enjoy attention and keep coming back for first class meals.
In Eilat you’re just minutes away from the desert hinterland. So you can explore the ancient spice route by bike, jeep or on the back of a camel, which was our choice. It ended with a specially cooked lunch under a Bedouin tent.
The eighth day of our visit ended in Tel Aviv. I often judge a city by asking, “Could I live here?” The answer is “Yes” for Tel Aviv, best explained by our driver who said, “I pray in Jerusalem and play in Tel Aviv”! Tel Aviv is a sophisticated modern city hugging the Mediterranean with miles of beaches and year round good weather. As a resident of Tel Aviv I’d be spending evenings in the old city with it s art galleries and chic cafes. Known as the city that never sleeps, it’s as cosmopolitan as it gets anywhere.
The message I took from Israel is you have to see this country to believe what’s happened in its 63 years. Israel’s enemies may rant and rage about Israel’s existence but their chance was lost in 1948. Now this country of incredible progress, innovation and fortitude is too strong to be wiped out.
To achieve these goals Israel has been governed politically by what’s been labeled “chaotic democracy”, with the need for political compromise. This is best illustrated by the remark of Levi Eshkol, a former Prime Minister of Israel. When asked, did he want coffee or tea, he replied, “Half of each”.
I find it shocking and embarrassing that Canada and the U.S., both endowed with natural resources, are debtor nations. Israel, devoid of these resources, is a creditor nation.
I realize that Israel has received financial help from other nations, particularly the U.S., to reach this financial state. But I’m also aware of other countries that have received vast amounts of money for years from many nations and have little to show for it.
On arrival home, I enthusiastically related my experience to a Jewish colleague. He remarked, “Now, I must go there”. So should you.
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